Dear Local Gourmands,
Last week I made my first voyage to Ellis Island for the launch party to celebrate Molly O’Neill’s triumphant collection, One Big Table. As I stood on the deck of the ferry, pulling away from the city, my imagination wandered off to my great grandmother Ida Bernstein who came to this country alone at the age of 16. I of course never met her, but I do wonder about her every time I find myself on Hester Street where she eventually settled. I’ll think about her while shopping in the Sweet Life for licorice, or while picking up dumplings in the neighborhood, and wonder what she ate when she first arrived in New York.
One of my earliest food memories from the city is the rice pudding my dad learned to make while working as a cook at the Gloucester House, an old Midtown seafood restaurant that is now long gone. We still make the pudding though– when I go home to Michigan, or once when my parents came to visit me and a house full of college friends in a summer sublet out in Oakland.
I just so happened to be reading O’Neill’s 1997 work, A Well-Seasoned Appetite, when she contacted me out of the blue this past May. It took me a minute to believe the very author whose name presided on my bedside table was now in fact asking me to contribute a recipe to her current project, a community cookbook of family recipes from across the nation. I’m so pleased to be nestled there on page 744, rice pudding, family story and all amidst the terrific company of home cooks from coast to coast.
Molly, thanks so much for inviting me to the table!
Wednesday, November 10, 6:30-8:30pm
Innovations in Urban Agriculture
Anna-Maria and Stephen Kellen Gallery,
Sheila C. Johnson Design Center
2 West 13th St
This panel consists of creative agricultural entrepreneurs who are designing integrated composting, aquaculture, and vegetable growing systems, aggregated networks of backyard gardens, rooftop farms, and hydroponic growing systems on contaminated industrial sites. John Ameroso, an expert on urban agriculture who has advised urban farmers for more than three decades as Cornell’s extension agent in New York City, moderates a panel discussion on the possibilities of these innovative forms of urban agriculture practices. Speakers include Erika Allen, Ben Flanner, Stacey Murphy, and Mary Seton Corboy.
Thursday, November 11, 6:30pm
Quiches, Kugels, and Couscous: In Search of the Food of the Jews of France with Joan Nathan
Culinary Historians of New York
7 West 83rd St, btwn Central Park West and Columbus
Tickets, $40 non-members and guests, $25 CHNY/CRS members
What is Jewish cooking in France? In a journey that was a labor of love, Joan Nathan traveled the country to discover the answer and, along the way, unearthed a treasure trove of recipes and the often moving stories behind them for her new cookbook, Quiches, Kugels, and Couscous. Join the Culinary Historians of New York as Nathan travels into kitchens in Paris, Alsace, and the Loire Valley, visits the bustling Belleville market in Little Tunis in Paris, and breaks bread with Jewish families around the observation of the Sabbath and the celebration of special holidays. All across France, she finds that Jewish cooking is more alive than ever: traditional dishes are honored, yet have acquired a certain French finesse. And completing the circle of influences: following Algerian independence, there has been a huge wave of Jewish immigrants from North Africa, whose hot flavors and Sephardic elegance have infiltrated contemporary French cooking. Join the Culinary Historians of New York as Joan Nathan shares the history, the recipes, and the stories from her newest book on the foods of the Jews of France. The reception will feature dishes from the book, and books will be available for purchase and signing. Please note: photo ID is required for entry at Congregation Rodeph Sholom.
Saturday, November 13, 9:30pm
The Farmer and the Horse
354 W. 45th St.
Tickets, $10 at the door or on thefarmerandthehorse.com
Catch the New York City premiere of The Farmer and the Horse, a documentary that follows three young farmers as they learn to farm with giant draft horses instead of tractors. Award-winning journalist Jared Flesher presents The Farmer and the Horse, a new film that digs into difficult questions about sustainability, self-sufficiency, and why we do the work we do. Flesher’s film goes beyond the usual platitudes of smiling organic farmers talking about the good life. Farming is grueling work and it’s hard to make a living — especially if you don’t use a tractor.
Saturday, November 13, 6-10pm
Innaugural Hattie Carthan Farmy Folks Soiree Fundraiser
Clifton Pl. at Marcy Ave. (next to the Hattie Carthan Garden)
Yonnette Flemming, matriarch of of the Hattie Carthan community garden and market, cooks up a fall harvest feast for “farmy folks.” Food, films, and music will make for a lively family event, which will also honor those who have helped the garden become a positive center of community spirit.
Sunday, November 14, 11am-4pm
Rye Bread and Scandinavian Sandwiches at the New Amsterdam Market
New Amsterdam Market
South St. between Beekman St. and Peck Slip
A 21 foot long wooden table will be set with more than 10 varieties of smørrebrød created by visiting Danish chef Trina Hahnemann and local chefsAlejandro Alcocer of greenbrownorange; Caroline Fidanza of Saltie; Christophe Hille of Northern Spy Food Co.; Simo Kuusisto of Nordic Breads; and the team from Marlow and Daughters. All sandwiches will be made with rugbrød baked by Nordic Breads using regional grain grown and milled by Cayuga Pure Organics of Trumansburg, NY, and topped with regional ingredients, following the norms set by Chef Hahnemann.
Sunday, November 14, 1-4pm
2nd Annual Brooklyn Pie Bake-off
355 Bedford Ave.
The Brooklyn Pie Bake-Off Benefit is a yearly Brooklyn based pie bake-off that raises money for local underfunded non-profits. There are only two rules for the Annual Pie Bake-Off Benefit. Rule One is that all pie crust must be homemade. Rule Two is that at least one ingredient must be local(our “local” is defined as being grown or produced within a 200 mile radius of Brooklyn). To wash down each slice we will have milk from Ronnybrook and beer fromBrooklyn Brewery. Entry to the event is $10 and includes free drinks and three pie slice tickets. Additional pie slice tickets can be had for $1 each. Bakers receive FREE admission. Bakers are required to bring two(2) pies to ensure that there is enough to go around. If you would like to compete, please RSVP by Friday, November 12th, with your name, pie, and local ingredient to: firstname.lastname@example.org.
Of note a few weeks down the road…
Monday, November 15
Farm School Applications Due
Mail in your applications to join the first class of the new found urban farming educational program, Farm School. Farm School NYC aims to increase the self-reliance of communities and inspire positive local action around issues of food access and social, economic and racial justice by providing comprehensive professional training in urban agriculture for NYC residents.
Monday, November 15, 6:30pm–8:30pm
Home Bakers Meet-up
The New Amsterdam Market School
224 Front St., between Beekman and Peck Slip
Admission is free, but you must reserve a ticket in advance
Break bread with fellow bakers at the kick-off party for Grains Week! Admission to this bread-based gathering is a loaf of your favorite home baked bread and a copy of your recipe. Bakers of all experience levels are welcome to swap samples with fellow grain geeks, tell stories about overactive yeast, or share secrets on how to get a really crusty crust. Take a crack at cranking the Greenmarket butter churn, sample bread baked with flour from Greenmarket vendors, and bring your recipe and/or starter to trade with others.
Tuesday, November 16, 12:30-2pm
Food Systems Network Open Networking Meeting
121 Ave of the Americas, 6th fl
Join fellow local food activists at the monthly Food Systems Network open networking meeting to share and hear updates about various projects and initiatives that colleagues are working on around the city. A $5 donation is suggested, though no one will be turned away for lack of funds. Avoid the fee by becoming a FSNYC member now! Visit: http://foodsystemsnyc.org/joinnow
Wednesday, November 17, 6–8pm
The Educated Eater: Regionally Grown Grain
The New School
65 West 11th St., 5th floor
Admission, free for students, $5 for general public
Tickets can be purchased at The New School box office, 212.229.5488 or email@example.com
You might weigh in heavily when it comes to your preference for butter, crisco, or lard in pie crusts, but do you ever wonder where the flour you use to roll out your perfect dough comes from, or how it might affect the quality of your pie? How would emmer pasta taste? What kind of home baked bread would locally grown spelt flour produce? In this edition of Greenmarket’s quarterly panel discussion series, The Educated Eater, talk turns to regionally grown grain. Hear from a culinary historian, a grower, a miller, a baker, and a chef about the past, present, and future of grains grown in the Northeast. Greenmarket’s June Russell moderates a discussion that explores the challenges and developments that will advance the availability and volume of local grains to the bakers, brewers, distillers, and chefs in our area.
Nathan Leamy—Watson Fellow, home baker, and global grains expert
Don Lewis—Miller and Baker, Wild Hive Farm
Anton Earnhardt—Grower, Lightning Tree Farm
Michael Anthony—Chef, Gramercy Tavern
June Russell, moderator—Farm Inspections Manager, Greenmarket
Wednesday, November 17, 6:30-8:30pm
Media, Advocacy, and Dialogue
Anna-Maria and Stephen Kellen Gallery
66 Fifth Avenue at 13th Street
Increasing media attention to urban agriculture has mirrored the public’s growing interest in the topic. At the same time, food activists have used the media in creative ways to advance support for urban agriculture. Moderated by food writer Andy Smith, this panel focuses on the relationship between media, advocacy, and the urban agriculture movement. The panel includes an artist and filmmaker, the producer of an internet broadcast network focusing on urban farming, an organizer of a farm boot camp for urban chefs, an expert on the internet and agriculture, and the publisher of a food magazine. Andy Smith moderates this panel that includes Ian Cheney, Erin Fairbanks, Tom Grace, Katy Keiffer, and Gabrielle Langholtz.
Wednesday, November 17, 6-9pm
Family-style Beer Dinner at Inside Park at St. Bart’s
109 E. 50th St.
Join Edible Manhattan for a 3-course family-style beer dinner at Inside Park at St. Bart’s featuring Stella Artois, Leffe and Hoegaarden beers. This collaborative dinner will feature 3 courses served family-style throughout the dining room, each inspired by a different film from the good folks at the NYC Food Film Festival, including “Mr. Okra”, “The Perfect Oyster”, and “Buttermilk: It Can Help”. Inside Park Dinner, of course, will be paired with the evening’s films: Chef Matthew Weingarten will serve wood-roasted oysters and an okra and housemade sausage jambalaya. And there will be veggies a plenty–also in honor of “Mr. Okra”–and “a buttermilk something” to finish. NYC Food Film Festival director George Motz, as well as Edible editor Brian Halweil, will be on hand to introduce the meal. All guests will also receive a one-year subscription to Edible Manhattan.
Wednesday, November 17, 6-9pm
42-38 9th St., Long Island City
Tickets, $30 tasting, or $50 tasting with open bar
The Queens Harvest Food Co-op hosts a tasting of event showcasing dishes from some of Queens’ finest: Agnanti, Astor Bake Shop, Bareburger, Cream Bakery, De Mole, LIC Market, M. Wells, Sage Testaccio, Vesta, and more.
Saturday, November 20, 2pm-4pm
Bread Baking with Ancient Wheat
The Brooklyn Kitchen: 100 Frost St.
Admission, $40 – tickets available here
Join Eli Rogosa on a culinary journey through the history of wheat from einkorn domesticated in Mesopotamia and emmer used in the original matzah, to the evolution of wheat in early Europe. Participants will bake sourdough einkorn bagels made with einkorn malt, einkorn flatbread spiced with Jerusalem zataar, and sprouted einkorn bread.
Saturday, November 20
Giving Thanks Dinner with Eagle St. Rooftop Farm
The Brooklyn Kitchen
100 Frost St., Williamsburg
Give thanks to the hands that fed us all season long with produce from the Eagle Street Rooftop Farm. Join friends and fellow farmers at this harvest meal and thanks giving party hosted by the Brooklyn Kitchen.
Sunday, November 21, 11am-1pm
Pancake Breakfast at New Amsterdam Market
New Amsterdam Market
South St. between Beekman St. and Peck Slip
Admission, $20 per plate
We’ll be flipping flapjacks on Sunday morning, at the culmination of a very grainy week—join us for pancakes, grits, and sausage as the sun comes up over the East River. Sample buckwheat, spelt, and good old fashioned (white and whole wheat) pancakes with a helping of local cornmeal grits on the side. Breakfast sausage and maple syrup sweeten the deal. All proceeds benefit New Amsterdam Market, the Organic Growers’ Research and Information-sharing Network, and The Heritage Wheat Conservancy.